An Introduction

Most of you reading this know that I am an International Development Studies graduate. You likely also know that I wrote my thesis on land grabs and governance in Cambodia, undertaking field research in Cambodia with the help of Oxfam GB. Three years have passed and I've returned to this beautiful country to work with Cambodians via VSO and CUSO International as a Local Governance Advisor in Chetr Borei District, Kratie Province. There'll be many challenges establishing the good governance model for VSO Cambodia as one of only 5 volunteers in this new sector, and as the first volunteer in this placement. I think I'm up for it!

I hope this blog proves to be a positive reflection on challenges I encounter working and living in Cambodia, and will also document my growth as I better understand this complex country. With any luck, there will be some entertainment value to this blog as well; I am sure to write about living in Cambodia as a barang (foreigner) and all the cultural shocks and questions that arise.

The first question for me, as always, is: How do I begin?

So, work it is!

As those that have perused my pictures on Facebook know, I am office-less at my job here in Chetr Borei District. Before arriving in the country, my placement document did advise me that the district had a building without electricity, running water, or toilets about 14 km from town. I wasn't sure what to expect when I arrived, but I've found that the Second Deputy Governor of the Chetr Borei District has provided her home as the headquarters for the Governor and his staff in Kratie town. A bonus for me is that this is about a 2 minute bicycle ride from my house. I've been working there for the past 2 weeks without a desk or overhead lighting, with intermittent access to the internet from her family's guesthouse next door, and with kids peaking over my shoulder to look at me typing on my laptop. This is not ideal. My Volunteer Assistant (VA) Virack isn't so thrilled with this set-up either, but we've got to be flexible.

The future home of Chetr Borei District authorities

 Another catch is that we are not in Chetr Borei District but in Kratie Town and Kratie District. I feel distanced from the community and know that citizen access to the District government is very limited. To get to the building in Chetr Borei where they hold meetings takes about 30 minutes from home on my Honda Dream. (Virack is driving me for now, until I get comfortable on my motorcycle. The rainy season has so far prevented me from getting out and practising.) They are building a new building and hope that it will be complete in 2014 but concerns have already been expressed over the lack of funds for utilities. Once the office is complete the Governor and Councillors will work together in the same location. I am sure the place will be ready to go by the time I'm ready to leave in June 2015...but best not to get my hopes up!

As Local Governance Advisor, I am supposed to be building capacity with the District Council, whose role it is to monitor the actions of the Chetr Borei District Governor. It's a part of the good governance agenda promoted by the Royal Government of Cambodia to allow more autonomy  to the local levels of government. The government hierarchy goes from National to Provincial to District to Commune to Village, so I am exactly in the middle. I am also in the middle between the District Governor (who uses English words with his Khmer and laughs and generally gets a kick out of me) and the District Council. I went to the monthly District Council meeting and the Council consists of about 14 men and one woman. There is no youth representation.  The District Council Director apologized for lacking an office and told me that the Second Deputy Governor's house would be my place of work. I haven't seen the Director or any of the District Councillors since. I have also discovered that the relationship between the Council and the Governor is a difficult one. This, in addition to logistical issues with the District office, will likely make my objective of encouraging citizen advocacy and collaboration with local authorities more challenging.

Visiting Bonleav Commune Office with VA Virack

Knowing the political climate and the emphasis on hierarchy in Cambodia, I expected there to be significant barriers to developing the skills and awareness that are required for good governance. I am meeting with new people almost every day, but it is much too soon to expect people to open up to me and express their real concerns. I trust that I'll get there if I am patient. I know that two years will not be nearly enough time to see a dramatic shift, but I hope to make some small contribution to building trust, relationships and accountability in Chetr Borei District.

For a first blog entry I hoped to have something a little less dry to talk about, but this is where my mind took me. Somehow I decided that speaking about my job would be a great blog opener. Never fear! There will be future blogs about geckos and flea-ridden dogs, interactions with sellers at the market, and the day-to-day happenings in Kratie. I'm just strategizing by leaving the juicer bits for later entries to keep you coming back!

As a bonus, here's a little observational tidbit:

Navigating the Mekong River in Kratie

 The clock in my house was set 10 minutes fast. I know this was done purposefully as I watched as my landlady's daughter set it carefully for me. When I checked the big clock in my 'office' (aka the Deputy Governor's living room) it was also set 10 minutes fast. Coincidence? Or are Khmer people trying to be on time by setting their clocks ahead? I may be reading too much into it, but you never know... . And that's always the case with cultural differences. You don't want to completely dismiss something as random; you also don't want to weigh it too heavily. That's the fine balance I'll try to maintain when navigating the little (or big) differences in Cambodia.